The Grain and Grape

For our long weekend in January, we visited the enchanting republic of San Marino, a tiny country perched on the sides and summit of a mountain, completely surrounded by Italy. Most visitors come for the breathtaking views of the fortress towers and the maze of Old Town streets that zigzag up Mount Titano. We arrived at sunset on Friday and caught what would be our only glimpse of clear views before a thick fog rolled in with the night.

That evening, we wandered through the quiet streets, with the occasional figure suddenly emerging from the mist. While there were no sweeping views for us in San Marino, the fog created its own magic. Instead of vistas, we were treated to a mysterious, almost eerie, walk through the Old Town.

The next morning, we hiked around the stone trail along the fortress walls, exploring the 3 towers. Everything was shrouded in thick fog, including the sheer drop-offs along either side of the path.

Perfectly in tune with the weather, we visited the Vampire Museum—surprisingly well done, with spooky displays and fascinating historical details.

Many restaurants close during the off-season in San Marino, but we discovered a gem at Brace da Donati. Seated in a cozy stone snug, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner paired with wine tastings. We also sampled local San Marino wines at La Loggia and had a perfect lunch at Da Pier.

Exploring Bologna

Before flying back to Germany, we spent a full day in Bologna. Most of the city center is pedestrian-only, and on Saturday the streets were packed with people. That evening, nearly every restaurant was fully booked, with waiting lines spilling out onto the sidewalks. Luckily, we managed to find an open table at La Rimessa, where the food was delicious and the service outstanding.

Always on the lookout for a good Irish pub, we had no trouble finding one in this university city. The Celtic Druid Irish Pub has dark wood interiors, dim lighting, and a perfect pint.

Our favorite spot in Bologna was Via Pescherie Vecchie, a small street lined with market shops selling meats, seafood, cheeses, fruits and vegetables, interspersed with small cafés. Wines were poured from mid-morning, and we had a lovely lunch of the local specialties, including mortadella, the original “bologna” as we know it. On the same street, Eataly is a wonderful multi-floor cafe, bookshop, and market.

Bologna is a lovely city to visit for a day. Its famous porticos, historic architecture, and small touches like unique door knockers makes it so picturesque.

---

We had a wonderful time visiting the enchanting San Marino, despite the fog, or maybe even because of its mysterious charm. And Bologna was a nice add-on for a day visit.

---

Logistics for San Marino and Bologna

Flights	Lufthansa: Arrival: Stuttgart (STR) – Munich (MUC); MUC – Bologna (BLQ) Return: BLQ – Frankfurt (FRA), Deutsche Bahn train to Stuttgart
Travel Bologna Airport to San Marino	Shuttle Italy Airport – bus from BLQ to Rimini train station – book online in advance Taxi from Rimini train station to San Marino (There is also a bus option, less expensive but takes much longer)
Restaurants in San Marino	We loved all of these: Da Pier La Loggia Brace da Donati
Museum!	Vampire Museum Highly Recommend!
Hotel in San Marino	Hotel Cesare Recommend!
Travel San Marino to Bologna	Taxi San Marino to Rimini train station Train Rimini to Bologna Central, book online in advance through Omio
Hotel in Bologna	Art Hotel Commercianti Highly Recommend!

---