The Grain and Grape

This Story is part 2 of 3 of our Visit to the Baltic Countries. We left Tallinn, Estonia in an Avis rental car and planned to drive through Estonia into Latvia, stopping at a few sites before arriving at our next home base in the capital city of Riga.

The weather so far had varied between sunny and pleasantly warm, and cool and raining. We had seen how quickly the cobblestone streets of Old Town Tallinn flooded with downpours of rain. So we considered ourselves lucky when it only rained steadily but lightly on our day of driving through the countryside. We still enjoyed a picnic lunch, inside the car.

Cēsis, Latvia

Riga, Latvia

Arriving in Riga, we followed the SatNav provided in the car, which did a decent job. Unfortunately, with our hotel in sight, right around the corner on a one-way square with parking available out front, we were stopped by the police and told to turn back. Parliament was in session on the same square, and the police were running a tight security.

Riga’s Old Town is charming, with a lovely, relaxed feel. It welcomes wandering, with a network of neighborhoods connected by small squares. It has been called “the Paris of the North,” and we could see why, the café culture was everywhere.

It’s an easy walk to all the sights, including going across the bridge to see the views of both the Castle and Old Town from the river.

The Freedom Monument, a symbol of Latvian’s independence, is set in the middle of a beautiful large park, and boat rides are available on the nearby canal.

Just beyond the Freedom Monument, the Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral is a breathtakingly beautiful church, both inside and out.

Heading toward the main railroad station, the Central Market is another attraction, as it is located in old Zeppelin Hangars, previously used by Germany in WWI. The Market is quite large, with over 3000 stalls of foods, household goods, and souvenirs.

We also found Festivals all around Riga, set up across large parks. Many tents were selling pottery, textiles, and woodwork, and everyone was out enjoying the nice weather.

Foods of Latvia

Traditional foods of Latvia include grey peas, which are similar to chickpeas and served with bacon, and potato pancakes. We enjoyed both of these at the Key to Riga restaurant in Old Town, along with more Baltic salmon. In fact, any kind of fish we tried throughout our time in the Baltics was outstanding.

Looking for more seafood, we found O’Pap’s Irish Pub, which served up a wonderful large pot of Mussels, as well as a pint.

We love spooky candlelit medieval pubs, and Riga has an excellent one. You enter Rozengrals from either side of a narrow street, and you’re instantly plunged back in time. The restaurant runs underground through several chambers with stairs up to street level at either end. Cool stone walls, candles in every nook, and a medieval menu, this restaurant is a must-visit.

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We loved our time in Riga, especially for its charming neighborhoods. In the middle of the day, the crowds swelled with visitors from cruise ships in port. But by the end of the afternoon, a relaxing stroll is possible, with space to admire all the artwork around the city.

Next week, we’ll wrap up our Visit to the Baltic Countries with Part 3 – Vilnius, Lithuania.

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