On a long holiday weekend, we set out to explore 3 countries in the Balkans. These were all new destinations for us, in a part of the world we’ve always enjoyed visiting. Close to Croatia and Italy, two of our favorite countries, we wanted to experience the highlights of N Macedonia, Kosovo, and Montenegro.
With only 5 days available, we booked a tour through Kreaktiva Storytelling. Our tour organizer, Vasilka, put together the perfect highlights itinerary, while still leaving time to wander and enough flexibility to enjoy each day at our own pace.
Vasilka arranged our hotels, drivers, and tour guides throughout the trip. Her network is impressive, and everywhere we went we felt welcomed like friends-of-friends rather than tourists.
North Macedonia
On arrival at Skopje Airport, our driver, Branko, was waiting with a sign for the Skinners, and brought us to Hotel London, right on Macedonia Square.
After checking in, it was time to find lunch, so we wandered over to St Patrick’s Irish Pub, admiring the enormous statues and fountains around the square along the way.
Along with several cafés and restaurants, St Patrick’s sits beside the tree-lined riverfront. Sitting outside in the shade with a breeze coming off the water made for a perfect lunch. We enjoyed a well-poured Guinness and had a great chat with our server, Dmitri.
June in the Balkans is hot, really too warm for sightseeing in the middle of the day, so our walking tour of Skopje was set to start at 4 pm. Vasilka was our guide for our first two days in North Macedonia. A trained archeologist and art historian, she combines incredible knowledge with genuine enthusiasm, making her an outstanding tour guide.
We didn’t quite know what to expect from Skopje, and found we really loved it. There’s a hilltop fortress overlooking the river, and the buildings, bridges, and statues create an interesting blend of old and new. Even the newer architecture has character and fits surprisingly well alongside the historic areas.
The Old Bazaar is a great neighborhood, with its mix of traditional craftsmen’s workshops and cute modern cafés and shops.
Skopje is also the birthplace of Mother Theresa, and there’s a lovely small museum and chapel dedicated to her.
Following one of Vasilka’s recommendations, we walked to a bohemian neighborhood for dinner, enjoying grilled meats and Macedonian wine at a charming taverna.
North Macedonia Day Tours
We started our second day with a traditional Macedonian breakfast at the hotel. The drinkable yogurt and homemade burek were definite favorites.
With Branko driving, Vasilka took us into the countryside to experience some of the region’s highlights. Our first stop was Stobi, a massive active archeological dig. It was impressive to see both how much of this ancient city has been uncovered and how much still remains buried.
After our stroll through history, we stopped at Lazar Winery for a tasting. The wines were exceptional, and the setting was beautiful. A very fun outing!
Next, we visited the village of Sirkovo for a true farm-to-table lunch at Rural Household Atanasovi. This wonderful family retreat offers meals on a spacious porch (with advance reservations), a cozy Airbnb cabin, and even a heated pool, all surrounded by their scenic small farm.
Lunch was outstanding, with homemade dishes arriving one after another, and by the time we were finished we were completely stuffed. We both fell asleep in the car on the drive back to Skopje.
KOSOVO
The following morning we met our new driver, Zayko, and headed toward Kosovo. Before leaving Skopje, he made a quick stop at the ruins of an ancient aqueduct, a great place for photos.
The drive to Kosovo was spectacular. The mountain roads wound through green hills, with snow still visible on the highest peaks. It was Saturday, and a stop in the Sharr Mountains was bustling, with a restaurant and vendors selling honey, snacks, and souvenirs. Families covered the hillside, with picnic blankets and kites, getting out for the day to escape the heat. Meanwhile, a shepherd worked hard to keep his sheep steered away from the growing crowds. What a wonderful glimpse into a typical weekend outing for local families.
By lunchtime we arrived in Prizren, a picturesque riverside city. We found a café overlooking the river and enjoyed one of our favorite meals, a grill plate. We shared the grilled meats and vegetables, enjoying beautiful views up to the hilltop fortress.
Kosovo Tour
Later that afternoon, our guide, Mookie, met us at the hotel for a private walking tour. He told us about the history of Kosovo, a country of about 1.6 million people that declared independence in 2008. The United States was among the first countries to recognize it as an independent nation.
Prizren has preserved much of its history despite periods of conflict and occupation. Historic Catholic and Orthodox churches stand alongside mosques, and the view from the river, with minarets, church towers, and the fortress above the city, is incredibly photogenic.
Everywhere we walked, people knew Mookie, we joked that we were touring with a local celebrity.
After our excellent tour, we chose a table in the main square for dinner. As evening arrived, the cafés filled with people and musicians began to gather. We were told that there would be dancing after dark, but with another early start ahead of us, we called it a night before the festivities began.
Montenegro
Early the next morning, Zayko picked us up for the five-hour drive to Kotor, Montenegro. Being Sunday, we expected heavy traffic from day-trippers heading to the coast. We made a couple of quick stops, one for coffee and another at a gas station to pick up breakfast snacks, and settled in for another beautiful road trip.
After another scenic drive through the mountains, we arrived in Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage site set on a beautiful bay in the Adriatic Sea.
With fond farewells to Zayko, we merged in with the crowds. The place was packed, tourists everywhere. We checked into Hotel Marija, in a small square inside the city walls, a wonderful spot to stay.
Tour of Kotor
We had time for a wonderful lunch of mussels in a white wine sauce before our private tour of Kotor.
Our guide, Igor, explained that the crowds were due to several cruise ships visiting the bay that day. At the moment, there is no limit to the number of cruise ships that can dock in Kotor.
As we walked through the Old Town, Igor pointed out its Venetian influence. Kotor was part of the Venetian Republic from the 1400’s through the 1700’s and served as an important Adriatic port. The impressive city walls, stretching from the waterfront up the mountainside to the fortress, were built in part to defend against pirates.
Igor guided us through narrow stone streets and small squares, sharing stories about the city’s churches, homes, and history of this ancient city while expertly steering us around the crowds and into the shade. It was an excellent introduction to Kotor.
By evening, the cruise passengers had returned to their ships, and the city felt completely different. We found a lovely Mediterranean restaurant in Cathedral Square and ate dinner beside the Cathedral of St Tryphon, the city’s patron saint.
The following morning, our fifth and final day, it was time to head to Podgorica Airport.
There was so much more we would have liked to see, but we’re grateful we had the chance to experience these 3 countries, even if only briefly. As always, we’d love to come back and spend more time, but we couldn’t have been happier with how this trip came together.
Overall Impressions
We weren’t sure what to expect from these 3 unique countries in the Balkans. Montenegro is well known as a tourist destination, but we had rarely heard of Macedonia or Kosovo mentioned by fellow travelers.
Skopje was a very pleasant surprise. The city feels vibrant and colorful, from its murals and architecture to its many parks and tree-lined streets. The main squares were full of families, children playing in fountains, and people enjoying cafés well into the evening. It has a lively atmosphere without ever feeling crowded. We were also surprised by the city’s diverse international food scene, with foods from as far away as Mexico and Cuba.
Spending a day in Kosovo and an overnight in Prizren felt like just the right introduction. Between the mountain scenery, riverside meals, and fascinating history, we came away wanting to see more of the country.
From our short visit, it’s easy to see why Montenegro has become such a popular destination. Next time, though, we’d choose spring or autumn, when the weather is cooler and the crowds are a little smaller.
Logistics
A big “thank you” to Vasilka at Kreaktiva Storytelling for organizing this trip for us!
| Tour Operator | Kreaktiva Storytelling |
| Flights | EuroWings + Austrian Air STR – VIE – SKP (Skopje) Austrian Air TGD (Podgorica) – VIE – STR |
| Skopje, Macedonia Hotel | Hotel London |
| Prizren, Kosovo Hotel | Adler Hotel |
| Kotor, Montenegro Hotel | Hotel Marija |
| Macedonia Wine Tasting | Lazar Winery |
| Macedonia Farm-to-Table Restaurant | Rural Household Atanasovi +389 (0) 72 250 855 |
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