The Grain and Grape

The story of the Battle of the Bulge, one of the last major battles of World War II, is an incredible one. It lasted from December 1944 through January 1945, and was one of the fiercest battles of the war. Germany made a big push to take Bastogne in order to have access to roads they needed to continue to expand across Europe. They surrounded the town, which was protected by the US Army 101st Airborne inside. German representatives offered the commanding US General McAuliffe to surrender, and his famous answer back was “Nuts!”

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American soldiers, hungry, cold, and tired, dug in and held the besieged town, constantly under attack. The skies cleared, which allowed for bombings from German planes, but also allowed for crucial air drops of medical supplies, ammunition, and food. And then the final speedy push of General Patton leading his Third Army division to Bastogne to relieve the soldiers and help to end the battle.

Bastogne is an easy drive from Stuttgart in southern Germany, so we packed up sandwiches and took a road trip in Rocky on a 3-day weekend.

Luxembourg

Our first stop was in Luxembourg, the capital city of the small country of Luxembourg. We visited the American Cemetery, a very special memorial for the fallen in World War II, including the final resting place of “Old Blood and Guts” himself, General George S. Patton. This is a beautiful and peaceful place with thousands of white crosses set in immaculately manicured grass. A special treasure of remembrance, created and maintained by the US and Luxembourg.

A 3-minute drive away is the German Cemetery, another impressive memorial, quiet and sombre. It has a different look and feel of the American cemetery, and is well worth a visit.

Both of these memorial cemeteries are quiet and powerful reminders that many never came home. While they represented different sides during the war, they all made the ultimate sacrifice.

We drove the back roads from Luxembourg to Bastogne, through beautiful countryside of rolling green hills. With many pull-offs in scenic areas, we ate our sandwiches for a picnic lunch.

Bastogne

In Bastogne, we headed straight to the War Museum and Mardasson Memorial, built to commemorate the Battle of the Bulge. Both are very impressive and well done. The museum offers a self-guided tour through artifacts, tanks, jeeps, and motorcycles from the period. There are also several special scenes that portray a war meeting, the battle from the foxholes, and a crowded cellar serving as a bomb shelter. The accompanying audio provides perspectives from both a German and American soldier, as well as two locals. Their stories give a good appreciation for what people went through during this time.

Le Bois Jacques, the woods where the Easy Company of the 101st Airborne spent their time during the battle, is in the next village of Foy. Their story was made popular by the HBO miniseries, Band of Brothers. The hushed quiet of the woods, with remnants of fox holes, felt like being in an outdoor cathedral. Quiet, solemn, and beautiful, it was again a time to reflect on what these men of the Greatest Generation went through when called on to serve their country.

The 101st Airborne Museum in Bastogne has exhibits over 3 floors, all about the famed unit that held the town against the Germans. An interactive bomb shelter in the basement is a must-do. Experiencing 5 minutes of battle noises in a shaking house gives a glimpse of an idea of what that would be like if it lasted day and night, day after day. Some citizens spent 30 days in cellars hiding from the bombs and staying alive by eating frozen potatoes.

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To round off the day, we enjoyed “Patton” and “Airborne” beers at Cafe Nuts!, and ate at a sweet Brasserie. Bastogne is very walkable, and our stay at Hotel Melba was lovely, with a perfect location. We watched our favorite Belgian detective, Poirot, on TV before falling asleep. We appreciate that we can start in Germany, have a stop in Luxembourg, and end the day in Belgium.

La Roche

The Ardennes is a beautiful region to drive through. There are rolling green farmlands and dark forests, with tiny villages dotting the area. After being immersed in the stories at the museums, it’s easy to imagine tanks rolling through the area, soldiers in foxholes in the woods, and bombs falling from planes overhead. The whole area makes you really appreciate what that generation went through during the war. Driving from Bastogne to Tongeren, we stopped for lunch in La Roche-en-Ardenne.

La Roche is a stunningly beautiful town on a wide bend of a river, a surprise highlight for us. We ate a wonderful lunch at a spot near the river, under the watch of the castle ruins. Afterwards, we picked up some Ardennes Ham at one of the local artisanal butcher shops. This ham has been of great importance to the region for centuries, as most families had a pig, and it was likely the only meat they would have for the year. A manual process of salting, drying, and maturing helped to ensure that it would last. With amazing flavors, it should be eaten along with melon and a Belgian beer.

Tongeren

Tongeren is the oldest city in Belgium, and we wanted to visit it because it hosts a famous Flea Market each Sunday. Due to the pouring rain, there was a light turn-out of vendors. Still, we managed to find some treasures from the market to bring home.

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Our route home was also beautiful, through rolling hills and beside wide rivers. While driving, with 80’s tunes playing and rain pouring down, we made plans for future road trips around Europe. This has been a wonderful trip through history. It’s very interesting and inspiring to explore the battle sites and hear the stories of tenacity, bravery, and national pride.

“A Good Plan, Violently Executed Now, Is Better Than a Perfect Plan Next Week.” 
– George S. Patton

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